As Vicentinas

Beware of the entrance, you can easily pass by it (I think). But this historical looking sign should offer you no doubt you are in the right place.

Vicentinas, also known as Santa Isabel teahouse, initiated in the 50's as a sewing saloon in an old banana warehouse that was ceded to the Vicentian Group so they could help the needed.

In that place there were as well fashion shows to display the garments and it was offered tea and scones to the guests. This trend started to have some success and that was the beginning of the tea house. Scones overruled fashion, the spontaneous pleasure was better than the long lasting one.

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It is impossible not to notice the religious motive that is going on. Jesus figures here and there. This looks like a selective place. Most of the people are elder, and probably religious, I fit neither of them and I can't help feeling a bit dislocated.

There was a table FULL of cakes and I was drooling. Try not to look at it while passing by, because a bit further there is once again one of those inside/outside esplanades. You can see the sky covered by the tree branches and through one of the windows you can see a sewing room.

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I asked a cold tea first, the best ever, it was something fruity but not too red fruity or else I wouldn't have liked it. The other one was black tea and lemon. They were 1.50€.

The scones that came were amazing and I had to ask for more, 1.90€ for two (because the second one doesn't need to bring butter so it is 10 cents cheaper). I started to have the feeling I should be eating like english royalty.

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Monday to friday from 11:30h to 19h. Saturdays from 15:30h to 19h. Closes sundays.

Pensão Amor

I have a curious relationship with this space. First time I heard about it, it opened along with two other cool bars in what I considered to be a sudden cultural movement in Lisbon: the pink street, named as so due to its manly pink color.

This fostered a very interesting mesh of people, on the one hand, the squalid people that hang out in the sleazy bars that dominated that area before, on the other hand, the high classes that eat tapas and caviar, that began do be attracted to this filthy street due to is new fancy places. And there was harmony, go figure!

Then, when I returned from my first trip to Budapest, Pensão Amor seemed like a wannabe Ruin Pub with selective clientele and boosted prices. And I became more disappointed, because my expectations came high. 

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Nevertheless, I still can enjoy this place. There is a cabaret feel, kitschy stuff and furniture decorating the place. In the big room there is some space to dance and a bar with night and day prices (so watch out and don't be fooled!). On the wall a big deer head is staring at us. It is lightened by a spotlight so it comes as an important piece of the room. There is also a more kinky room near the erotic literature and accessories shops, with leopard print, psychedelic ceiling, a strip pole and mirrors.

It is not the same as the ruin pubs, but it sure is over crowded on fridays and saturdays.

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Open from monday to wednesday from midday to 2h and thursdays and fridays from midday to 4h.

2 ao Quadrado

After Café Saudade closed the door at midnight, we decided to look for something else. The owner of the place felt a bit bad for sending us away and suggested 2 ao Quadrado (2 squared).

This is the classic bar. Noisy, with a little cheapness touch to it (we call it "tascas", but this was not quite) and you can feel the comradeship between the people that frequent this place.

The posters on the walls are amazing ice-breakers, and I always thought the more stuff a place has, more conversation topics you can pull out of the bag. Well, I am not insinuating people need them but it is always interesting to look around and comment. SAY IT!

They have cool prices, but not so cool people (at least for me). A three ingredient toast is 2.60€ (you can choose from mushrooms, ham, cheese and tomato). A mini beer is 1€, a mug with double is 1.90€, a Licor Beirão is 2.50€ and a port wine is 2€. They even have half doses for half price.

Here I drew a cat and baptized it, if you see it there, send a picture for Tarzan Urbano/Urban Tarzan e-mail given on the left column, I would love to check if it's still present.

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Monday to thursday from 18h to midnight and fridays and saturdays from 18h to 2h.

Café Saudade

The word "saudade" is such a portuguese thing. It has a melancholic vibe and refers to the deep feeling of missing something or someone. I use it a lot when I am away from Lisbon, it is not only the people but the city itself, it has some kind of mesmerizing power only understood when you explore it deeply.

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I asked for this super big super sweet lemonade (1.60€). It was amazing. It was painful (I have loads of aphtae) but I survived. A hot chocolate was also our demand (the girls), and the boys shared some tea (how awkward does that sound?). There is no rule that says that men can't share a teapot.

We didn't stay long in Saudade but it was long enough to explore the place. It has an exhibition space, rooms with stuff for sale, and a kitchen situated in the middle of everything. They usually have some events but the facebook should have information about that, since their blog is a bit pointless.

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Monday to wednesday from 8:30h to 20h. Thursday to saturday form 08:30 to midnight and sunday from 08:30h to 20h.

Salla de Estar

If you go to Lisbon you CANNOT miss Sintra. There are some sweet spaces in between the jagged streets. Salla de Estar reminds me of Wanli mixed with the Chinese Pavillion (a very interesting fancy place in the center).

The entrance hall gives access to both up and down floor. This down floor seems to be the most lively one, with a snooker table, the bar, a piano, and a tv set.

On the top floor we have wonderful view for the menu written on the sides and for the bald heads of the passing by people.

The velvet curtains give it a burlesque look and we only expected some vintage looking woman to come from there and dance for us.

This is a hodgepodge of styles! Bottle packages are floating on the wall, Chaplin is there, Heineken stuff everywhere including even a beer fountain, vintage "posters" on the walls, paintings with no special criteria, equestrian material, music discs, plates, books, nautical stuff, art nouveau wall pattern, whoa!

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The toast degustation moment was particularly interesting. Me and my friend asked for a chicken and tuna sandwiches. But they traded them. Worst part is: we didn't notice! In our defense, tuna is a meaty fish, and with mayonnaise on top, I mean... Could happen!

Well but they're pretty big and delicious and only 3.50€ each. They had a fish shape and reminded me of a delicious dessert from the north city of Trancoso called sardinhas doces (sweet sardines).

Overall this is a kickass place to visit when you are in Sintra and I totally recommend it.

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Couldn't find the schedules of this place but ask away on facebook!

Pois, Café

"Pois..." is though to translate but it is one of the most commonly used portuguese words. It is better understood through examples I guess:

- And do you have money to do all that?
- Pois... Esse é o problema (Well... That is the problem).

It is kind of a confirmation/agreement/acknowledgement of what others said:

- But you can't make an omelet without eggs!
- Pois!!! Foi o que eu disse! (Exactly!!! That was what I said!)


Pois, Café has austrian owners, austrian stuff, and a portuguese soul. Arriving to Lisbon they were faced with this portuguese filler word, and that was the sure name for the place. So "pois" is crucial. If you find this word is missing in your language, we can start aiming for an universal mix.

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They have some of the best toasts in Lisbon in terms of flavor and creativity. I love the Romy (bacon, leek, honey curry sauce, arugola, purple cabbage, carrot and pepper) and I ask for it all the time because there is no better! However it has become more expensive with time (6.90€). It is justifiable though.

This is an awesome place for erasmus, and also to study or work (sometimes can become noisy though). Imagine this: feeling the summer breeze and working while eating an apfelstrudel. And speaking of those, I met a weird german character named Malte who taught me to say it correctly, here is some precious knowledge for you.

I took a little excert from Lifecooler website because I found it interesting so I will translate it:

The tables are inspired in the cities that give them name. This way, we have Buenos Aires, a corner with sofas and little tables, a feel-at-home vibe; Marrakech, a high couch between three walls with a breakfast-in-bed table in the middle - perfect for tea; Vienna, crafted wood and the only one with the chairs all of the same type, good for meals. The remaining ones are Sydney, Moscow and Fiji.

I specially love Marrakech, we have to eat in a less conventional way and that brings a fun factor to it: crossed legs, table on the knees. I had a wonderful dinner here before Filho da Mãe concert. I recommend you to check this guy.

Pois is part of the Bookcrossing community and all the books can be replaced with you own.

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Go to their website for weekly menu.
Pois is open from 11h to 22h everyday except monday.